The motor is the easy half.
Most openers that get replaced did not really fail on their own. They were hauling a door that was out of balance and they gave out first. Will checks the door before he sells you a motor.
What it covers
8 items- Openers that run but do not move the door
- Stripped drive gears
- Remotes and keypads that stopped pairing
- Photo eyes and safety reverse
- Travel and force limits reset
- Noisy chain and worn rail
- New opener supplied and fitted
- Emergency release reconnected properly
How the visit goes
No mystery about it.
Door first
The balance test comes before anything else. Fitting a new opener to an unbalanced door just starts the same clock again.
Then the head
Gear, logic board, limits, or genuinely worn out. Some of these are a part and an hour rather than a whole new unit.
Set it properly
Travel limits, force, photo eye alignment and the safety reverse all get set and tested before he leaves.
The test nobody runs
Safety reverse, once a month.
Lay a length of timber flat on the floor under the door and close it. When the door touches the timber it should stop and go straight back up. If it keeps pushing, the force setting is wrong and the door does not know the difference between a piece of wood and something else.
Then wave something through the photo eyes while it closes. Same result: it should reverse. Both tests take a minute and Will runs them on every visit.
Tell him what it's doing
Describe the noise. Will knows the noise.
The banging, the sticking, the crooked side, the thing that only happens when it is cold. You will get a straight answer and a real number.
(720) 726-0765